Sea Buckthorn

Sea buckthorn is a hardy, thorny shrub best known for the bright orange berries that cluster along its branches. The berries are used in food and herbal traditions, while oils obtained from the fruit and seeds are ingredients in botanical skincare. These oils are valued for their fatty acids, and the vividly colored fruit oil also contains carotenoid pigments. Understanding which part of the berry is used helps explain what makes the ingredient distinctive.

The plant

Native to parts of Europe and Asia, sea buckthorn grows in open, often exposed habitats, including coastal dunes and river valleys. Its narrow leaves have a silvery cast, and fruit generally develops on female shrubs, with male plants supplying pollen. Sea buckthorn also forms a partnership with nitrogen-fixing Frankia bacteria in its roots, helping it grow in relatively poor soils. It has consequently been used in erosion control and land restoration. [1, 2]

Sea buckthorn has uses beyond cosmetics. Its tart berries are made into juices, preserves, and other foods. Ethnobotanical research in Ladakh documents sea buckthorn as a livelihood plant for local communities. [3]

What makes the oils different?

The fleshy fruit and the seed yield oils with different compositions. Fruit-pulp oil is notably rich in palmitoleic acid—an omega-7 fatty acid also present in human skin lipids—and in carotenoids associated with its orange color. Seed oil generally contains higher proportions of linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids. The precise balance varies by variety, growing conditions, and processing. [4]

Both can be useful cosmetic ingredients, but they are not identical. When you see “sea buckthorn oil” on a label, it is worth finding out whether it comes from the fruit pulp or the seed.

At Deschampsia

We use organic virgin, CO₂-extracted sea buckthorn fruit oil in Harmony Serum, adding it after the herbal infusion has been filtered. Its characteristic orange pigments contribute to the color of the finished oil.