Bakuchiol is a plant-derived compound used in facial skincare, particularly in products concerned with the appearance of fine lines, uneven skin tone, and texture. Much of the interest in bakuchiol comes from research comparing it with retinol. The two compounds are chemically different, but both have been studied for visible signs of skin aging. Bakuchiol is often incorporated into modern formulas as a purified ingredient rather than as a whole seed oil.
The bakuchi plant
A principal source of bakuchiol is bakuchi, also called babchi, a flowering plant in the pea family with broad leaves and small purple flowers. Its currently accepted botanical name is Cullen corylifolium; older herbal and cosmetic references often use Psoralea corylifolia. [1]
Bakuchi fruits and seeds have a long history in South Asian herbal practice, including preparations associated with the skin.
From seed to purified ingredient
Modern skincare generally uses purified bakuchiol, a specific compound isolated from the plant. This is different from crude seed oil, which contains a broader mixture of compounds, including potentially photosensitizing psoralens. [2]
Why the comparison with retinol?
Laboratory skin research has examined bakuchiol’s activity in processes associated with collagen, the structural protein important to skin’s firmness and resilience. [3]
In a 12-week study involving 44 participants, a cream containing 0.5% bakuchiol applied twice daily and a cream containing 0.5% retinol applied once daily both improved measured wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. Retinol users reported more scaling and stinging. [4]
Together, these studies help explain why bakuchiol has become an ingredient of interest in skincare focused on the appearance of aging skin.
At Deschampsia
We use purified bakuchiol in Glow Serum, rather than a crude bakuchi seed preparation. It is added to a blend of organic plant oils and infused botanicals.
